My hands are continuously swollen and covered with nicks, blisters, and
newly developed calluses. The skin around my fingernails is permanently
darkened from wine stains. I've lost about fine pounds in weight and 3
percentage points in body fat, and my Levi's fit much more loosely. As
someone pointed when looking at my hands "You look like a farmer."
Last week was when most of us hit the wall. The head winemaker finished
three weeks straight of working in the winery, far short of his 28 day
stretch back in 2006. The youngest member of the team injured his back and
was out for a couple of days. And the cellar master and I were just plain
tired. The jokes were coming less often, our pace in the winery a bit
slower, and smiles not as quick to emerge from our faces.
The week marked the final crush day of twenty four total. Which also meant
the end of volunteers, that interesting group of people who work five to six
hours for a free lunch, a bottle of wine, and the experience of standing in
front of a sorting table, usually with a puddle of dark red grape juice
under their feet, pulling grapes off of stems. I love the volunteers
because they provide so much help, but it's nice to have the winery to
ourselves. I find it amazing that our volunteer coordinator can send out an
email announcing an upcoming crush opportunity a day or two in advance and
the request for twelve people will be filled by email responses in ten
minutes. Obviously they have too much time on their hands and love their
Blackberrys.
One of the more interesting personal experiences has been that period
normally known as sleep. I never sleep more than three hours without waking
up and feeling some intense pain in my arms or legs. After a quick
adjustment and falling back to sleep, I wake up again in a different
position with something else aching. And then there are the dreams. Just
bizarre, upsetting, where did that come from kind of dreams. And I'm not
alone. The wife of one staff member told him he kicks and whimpers in his
sleep much like a dog, and thrashes about pulling the sheets.
We are on the downhill leg now, with crushing done and pressing to be
finished. Since fermentations takes about two weeks, most pressing will be
done two weeks from now. In the meantime we'll be cleaning equipment and
storing it off site for the season, making sure malolactic fermentation is
going well, topping barrels, and performing chemistry tests to track ongoing
wine health.
It's illuminating to run the numbers. We crushed and will press 230 tons of
grapes. Assuming a range of 2 - 2.5 barrels produced per ton yields a range
of 460 - 575 barrels. And with each barrel yielding 25 cases, we'll have
produced somewhere in the neighborhood of 13,000 cases of wine when the last
reds are bottled a year and a half from now after ageing. I look forward to
drinking some.